An Unexpected Pleasure - Chateau Montelena 2012 Cabernet Franc

Talking Cab Franc with Bo Barrett

Feb 24

Montelena’s historical importance to the California wine industry cannot be overestimated. Even if you haven’t seen the movie about the Judgement of Paris tasting in 1976 or read George Taber’s book about the event, Chateau Montelena is one of the few wineries in the Napa Valley responsible for defining the essence of the Napa Valley style for critics and wine lovers for 50 years.

Making the most famous Chardonnay from California while also being one of the pre-eminent producers of Cabernet Sauvignon from Cab’s heart burnishes a brand’s reputation to be sure. And a world-class vineyard planted to the Bordeaux varieties allows for rare, but impressive, releases of less prominent grapes, like Cabernet Franc.

I received a gift of the 2012 Montelena Cabernet Franc from a friend, and Beth and I tasted it recently (amidst a plethora of Cab Francs from around the world auditioning for Cabfrancapalooza). I reached out to Bo Barrett, the legendary leader of Montelena, to ask about his thoughts regarding Cab Franc and how the 2012 came to be. Our email exchange has been lightly edited for clarity.

Wine Saves Lives!: How do you like Cab Franc? What does it bring to blends?

Bo Barrett: It’s all front palate and top (lifted) nose notes, brightening Cabernet Sauvignon a bit. We typically use 1-3% [in blends].

WSL!: Is the 2012 vintage of Cab Franc the only one you’ve made? What prompts you to make it?:

BB: We’ve made a couple of vintages, but it is rare. If we’ve had a good crop and have more than we need for blends, we’ll bottle some for club offerings if it is nice enough.

WSL!: What is special about your growing area, Calistoga, for Cab Franc?

BB: Calistoga ripens all BDX (Bordeaux) varieties easily with a low vegetal component due to high heat days/cool nights ripening pattern. Like the herbs in Cabernet Sauvignon, they are “baked” out to bright cherry.

WSL!: Do you see Cab Franc playing an increasing role in Napa over the next 3-5 years? If so, why?

BB: Yes. Since Cabernet Sauvignon is overplanted, there will be increased need for BDX blenders like Cab Franc and Petit Verdot. The overplanted situation has been “masked” by ’17 & ’20 fires and light crops ’21 & ’22. And naturally since CS is overplanted, it’s also over-produced, and thus very competitive. alternative niches [like Cabernet Franc] become options

Consistent with many of the other Chateau Montelena wines that I have enjoyed over the years, the 2012 Cabernet Franc, with an alcohol level of 13.8%, is a very balanced adn elegant wine. While it lacks the intense dark Cabernet Franc fruit that marks young wines from the eastern foothills of the Livermore Valley, it shows Cab Franc in nuances of smoked parika and dried chilis in the mouth and an overall palate weight that pays homage to the glory of Cabernet Franc. This is a fine wine that succeeds both in being esthetically consistent with the brand’s identity and treating the variety (unlike many of its growing area’s brethren) with thoughtful respect.